The most frequently asked question in lowriding, in my opinion, is
“Do I need to reinforce my frame when installing hydraulics?”
The short answer to this is….well there is no short answer. So here is the long answer. The long answer depends on what you expect out of your car, how you treat your car, and how long you would like your car to last. Personally I have owned cars with zero reinforcements, “stress point” reinforcements, and full frame wrap reinforcements. Budget and skill set also plays a factor in this question. Is the car a hardtop, or a convertible? There are many factors to consider when asking this question. Lots of times I get this question followed by, “I just want a simple lay and play setup with a little bit of hopping.”. *a little bit of hopping*…really?
I think the most basic setup commonly installed and referred to as a “lay and play setup” would be a 2 pump 4 battery kit. But that doesn’t mean you cant run a 1 pump 2 battery kit, or a 4 pump, 14 battery kit. First lets discuss the most simplified form of hydraulic suspension. 1 pump, 2 dump, 2 battery. For something like this you can definitely get away without reinforcing the frame at all. Incorporate that system with some stock coil springs and you can achieve a very nice riding and driving car. After that would be a 2 pump, 4 dump, 4 or 6 battery kit. For this, depending on how you treat the car, I would recommend at minimum a rear arch reinforcement kit. Front spring pockets would be a bonus. These days in lowriding, extended upper control arms are common place, and an industry standard, most commonly 1 inch extensions. You can then shim back per preference. Don’t forget you are adding 400-600 pounds of weight to the trunk of the car. This is why you want at minimum the rear arches of the frame plated. If not, a buckled quarter panel will be in your future, even sooner if you have stock or rusted body mounts. Once you get past the 6 battery stage , Is when I would recommend a “full stress point” frame reinforcement. This would include rear arches, rear axle, front spring pockets. Upper control arm mounts, engine cradle or cross member and front and rear lower control arm reinforcements. If you want to run 10 or more batteries, with 3 or more pumps, piston pump etc, then a full frame wrap is in order. This can get very expensive, even when doing things yourself. Because it turns into much more than a frame reinforcement. It will probably include new body bushings, new exhaust, new brake and fuel lines etc. The cost can really spiral out of control.
All this being said, you really have to ask yourself, what do you expect out of the hydraulic system and are you willing to compromise ride quality for hydraulic performance? It is very hard, nearly impossible to achieve a great riding/driving experience when you have 1000lbs or more extra weight in your trunk on 13 inch wheels. You will be asking a lot out of braking system, steering system and body mounts.
Personally, I like to keep things clean and simple. 2 pump, 4 to 6 battery with simple lay and play. You can do this with minimal reinforcement, still achieve a good ride quality and be proud of your trunk work. Accumulators are also something to consider. Adding them to the rear of the car helps with a softer ride, a slower response and less wear and tear on your cars body panels, body mounts, and suspension.
If you have never seen a stock g-body rolling chassis or a stock 58-64 impala , non Canadian rolling chassis, without the body on, you will be very surprised at how flimsy and how sub-par some of the factory welds are. We like to call them Friday cars. Meaning, they were assembled at the plant on Friday, after lunch when staff were ready to go home and call it the end of the work week.
To conclude this commonly asked topic….
Do you *need* to reinforce the frame for hydraulics? - NO
Should you *want* to reinforce the frame for hydraulics? - YES
